Proper leveling is one of the most important — and most overlooked — aspects of RV setup. An unlevel RV isn't just uncomfortable; it can damage your refrigerator, stress your slide-outs, and cause doors and drawers to swing open or refuse to close. Here's how to do it right.

Why Leveling Matters

Refrigerator: RV absorption refrigerators (the most common type) require the unit to be within 3 degrees of level to operate properly. Running an absorption refrigerator significantly off-level can permanently damage the cooling unit — a repair that often costs more than the refrigerator itself.

Slide-outs: Slide-out mechanisms are designed to operate on a level surface. Extending or retracting slides on a significantly unlevel RV stresses the motors, gears, and seals.

Comfort: An unlevel RV means rolling out of bed, dishes sliding off counters, and water pooling in the shower.

Doors and drawers: Cabinet doors and drawers that won't stay closed — or won't open — are a sign the RV is off-level.

The Correct Leveling Sequence

Step 1: Level Side-to-Side First

Side-to-side leveling is done with leveling blocks or ramps under the tires. Use a bubble level placed on the floor (not the countertop — counters aren't always parallel to the floor) to determine which side needs to come up.

Drive onto leveling blocks gradually — have a spotter watch the level and signal when you've reached level. Don't overshoot and have to back up repeatedly.

Step 2: Level Front-to-Back

For travel trailers and fifth wheels, front-to-back leveling is done with the tongue jack or front landing gear. For motorhomes, use the front leveling jacks.

Adjust until the front-to-back bubble is centered.

Step 3: Deploy Stabilizer Jacks

Stabilizer jacks do NOT level the RV — they stabilize it once it's already level. Deploying stabilizers on an unlevel RV locks the unlevel position in place and stresses the frame.

Lower stabilizer jacks until they contact the ground firmly, then give them a quarter-turn more. Don't crank them down hard — you're stabilizing, not lifting.

Step 4: Chock the Wheels

Place wheel chocks on both sides of at least one tire (front and rear of the same tire) before unhitching or extending slides. Chocks prevent rolling if the parking brake fails or the ground shifts.

Automatic Leveling Systems

Many newer RVs have automatic leveling systems (Lippert, HWH, Power Gear). These use hydraulic or electric jacks controlled by a central panel. They're convenient but require maintenance:

• Check hydraulic fluid level annually (hydraulic systems)
• Inspect jack pads for wear and damage
• Test the system before each trip — don't discover a failed jack at the campsite
• Keep the sensors clean — dirty sensors cause the system to level incorrectly

Stabilizer Jack Maintenance

Manual stabilizer jacks need periodic lubrication — the screw threads should be coated with a dry lubricant or white lithium grease. Rusty, dry threads make jacks hard to operate and can cause them to seize.

Inspect jack pads for cracks or deterioration. A failed pad can allow the jack foot to dig into soft ground and tip the RV.

Mobile Leveling System Repair in North Texas

Done Right RV Repair handles automatic leveling system diagnosis and repair, stabilizer jack replacement, and related issues throughout North Texas. Our mobile service means we come to your campsite or driveway.

Call us or request service online.