In North Texas, a working RV air conditioner isn't a luxury — it's a necessity from May through October. And when temperatures drop, a reliable furnace keeps your rig livable. Here's how to maintain both systems so they're ready when you need them.

RV Air Conditioner Maintenance

Clean the Filters

The air filter is the most neglected part of RV AC maintenance. A clogged filter restricts airflow, reduces cooling efficiency, and makes the compressor work harder — shortening its life.

Clean or replace the filter every 30 days during heavy use. Most RV AC filters are washable foam — rinse with water, let dry completely, and reinstall. Replace if torn or deteriorated.

Clean the Evaporator and Condenser Coils

Dirty coils dramatically reduce cooling capacity. Once per season, remove the interior shroud and clean the evaporator coils with a coil cleaner spray. On the roof, remove the outer shroud and clean the condenser coils with a garden hose — spray from the inside out to push debris out rather than in.

Inspect the Roof Gasket

The gasket between the AC unit and the roof is a common source of water leaks. Inspect it annually — it should be soft and pliable, not cracked or compressed flat. A failed gasket lets water into the ceiling, causing delamination and mold.

Check the Capacitors

Capacitors are the most common failure point in RV air conditioners. They store electrical charge to help start the compressor and fan motors. Weak capacitors cause hard starting, reduced cooling, and eventually compressor failure.

Signs of a failing capacitor: the AC hums but doesn't start, the compressor starts slowly, or the unit trips the breaker. Capacitor replacement is an inexpensive repair that can extend the life of an older AC unit significantly.

Test Before Summer

Don't wait until a 100-degree day to find out your AC doesn't work. Test it in the spring — run it for 30 minutes and verify it's cooling properly. The air coming from the vents should be 15–20°F cooler than the return air temperature.

RV Furnace Maintenance

Clean the Burner and Combustion Chamber

Dust, spider webs, and debris accumulate in the furnace during storage. Before the first use each season, remove the exterior access cover and inspect the burner and combustion chamber. Use compressed air to blow out any debris.

Spiders love to nest in furnace orifices — a blocked orifice causes ignition failure or incomplete combustion. Inspect and clear the orifice carefully.

Check the Sail Switch

The sail switch is a safety device that verifies the blower is running before allowing the burner to ignite. A stuck or dirty sail switch is a common cause of furnace ignition failure — the blower runs but the burner never lights.

Inspect the Vent and Combustion Air Intake

The furnace exhaust vent and combustion air intake on the exterior of the RV must be clear. Check for wasp nests, debris, or damage. A blocked vent is a carbon monoxide hazard.

Test the CO Detector

Your RV should have a carbon monoxide detector. Test it before each camping season and replace the batteries annually. CO detectors have a limited lifespan — replace the unit every 5–7 years regardless of whether it tests functional.

When to Call a Technician

• AC compressor won't start or trips the breaker repeatedly
• Furnace ignites but shuts off after a few seconds (flame sensor or limit switch issue)
• Any burning smell from the furnace
• AC cooling capacity has dropped significantly despite clean filters and coils
• Water leaking from the AC unit into the ceiling

Done Right RV Repair provides mobile HVAC service throughout North Texas. Call us or request service online.